12.03.2011

Mae Sai to Fang, Fang to Chiang Mai

Back in Chiang Mai after a few more wonderful days on the road.  After leaving Mae Sai, we started on the most challenging part of the ride, over the Doi Tung pass in the northern mountains.  It was a very steep and winding ride, but probably the most breathtaking and exhilarating we've had so far.






Rest stop overlooking the mountains


The Myanmar-Thai border

The town of Doi Tung was small and beautiful, and we stopped mid morning to climb up to a temple on a hill.



Wat Phra That- temple on the hill


We continued on to the small town of Mae Salong.  Upon entering the last 2 km stretch to Mae Salong we were hit with a very fragrant aroma: Tea.  The town is known for its tea production, cultivated by the small Yunnanese population that has settled there.  Yunnan is the province of China closest to Northern Thailand, and the influences were fun (and delicious) to experience.  We originally had planned to spend the night in Mae Salong, but made such good time coming through the mountains we decided after a late lunch to continue on to Fang.




I mustache you a question: isn't this beautiful?!

Lunch

Delicious Yunnanese sausage, tastes a bit like crispy chorizo

Another temple on a mountainside in the distance

If you look closely you can see statues and temples dotting the mountains


When we arrived in Fang, we did our usual hotel search and lucked out.  One of the small hostels we looked at said they were opening a resort just a kilometer down the road.  Because they were still doing construction outside, we got a room for their promotion price-- a beautiful resort room for under $20?  Not bad.  We did a little research before bed and found that this sleepy mountain town was also home to Doi Pha Hom Pok National park.  We woke up early to head to the park before the tourist crowds and it was raining pretty hard.  After putting on our full rain suits, we jumped on the bike and headed to the park.  Because of the weather, the very sweet woman at the entrance gave us a half off discount on tickets (about $3 each) and we headed in.  A strong smell of eggs lingered in the cool air of the morning, and we saw the natural hot springs as we turned a corner.





While wandering around the park the rain let up, so we decided to check out the mineral baths we had passed on the way in.  As we entered baths, we saw a whole spa set up surrounded by the amazing hot springs.  We decided to spend some time there, and after a dip in the pool and a delicious brunch, decided to get a massage.  Neither Elliot nor I have ever gotten a massage so we didn't really know what to expect... We opted for a half hour, and I spent most of it laughing both because I'm incredibly ticklish and because looking over at a tiny woman  fold Elliot into a husband pretzel was kind of hilarious.  My masseuse hummed along with the Thai music playing the the background and would give a little shriek of delight every time something cracked (which was every 20 seconds or so).  It was an experience.  Afterwords we paid, and the two women put their hands together and bowed in unison and said "Kom kun kaaaah" (Thank you).  "Kom kun kaaah" (No no, thank YOU) I squawked with my Cleveland accent.  "Kom kun kaah" (No really, thank you) they reciprocated bowing again. "Uh, kom kun kaah?" (Seriously, thanks) I repeated. "Kom kun KAAAAH!" (THANK YOU!) They insisted loudly.  Unsure of how to continue this game of thank you one-ups-manship, I shot them a big grin, and did a weird half curtsy as I shuffled out of the room mumbling "KthaaaanksBye".  Really?  Three thank yous?  Sorry rest of the world, it's official, the kindest people live in Thailand.  Relaxed and happy, we got back on the road.  Our spa morning including brunch for 2, the dip in the mineral baths, and two massages? Under $8. 




 We made a quick stop in Chiang Dao for coffee and a bite to eat but decided to continue on to Chiang Mai  for the night.  Our original hostel was full so we went across the street to a small B&B called Elegant Lanna (which means "coconut milk") for the night.  Dinner was a trip to the family restaurant where we had that amazing Khao Soi last week, and after a long talk with the chef and owner, we made a date to be her prep cooks for the day Tuesday starting at 10am to learn some of the methods in cooking curries.  Looking forward to a couple relaxed days in Chiang Mai before our flight to Singapore on Wednesday!



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